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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.